Yes, you can get your snow blower running again with some simple checks. The key is to follow a clear plan to find out why it won’t start, so you can fix it fast.
It’s a bad feeling when a big snow hits and your machine won’t start. You pull the cord and nothing happens, or it sputters and dies. I’ve been there many times myself.
Most of the time, the problem is simple. Old gas, a dirty carburetor, or a bad spark plug are the usual suspects. These are easy to fix if you know what to look for.
This guide will walk you through the steps to get your snow blower running. We’ll start with the easiest fixes and move to the harder ones if needed.
How to Get My Snow Blower Running: The First Thing to Check
When you need to get your snow blower running, start with the fuel. Old gas is the number one reason these machines won’t start.
Gasoline goes bad after about 30 days. It leaves a sticky gunk that clogs the tiny parts inside the engine. This gunk stops fuel from getting where it needs to go.
Open the gas cap and take a sniff. If it smells sour or like varnish, it’s bad. The best fix is to drain all the old gas out of the tank and the carburetor bowl.
Put in fresh, clean gasoline. For most small engines, use regular unleaded gas. Don’t use gas with more than 10% ethanol if you can avoid it.
Adding a fuel stabilizer to your new gas is a smart move. It helps the gas last longer so you don’t have this problem next season. I always use it in my cans.
If you just put in fresh gas and it still won’t start, the old gunk might still be in the carburetor. You’ll need to clean it, which we’ll cover next.
Cleaning the Carburetor to Get It Running
If fresh gas didn’t get your snow blower running, a dirty carburetor is likely the block. This little part mixes air and fuel for the engine.
The carburetor has very small holes called jets. Old gas residue plugs these jets up. When they’re clogged, no fuel gets to the engine.
You can often clean the carb without taking it all apart. Look for a small screw on the bottom of the carb bowl. This is the drain plug.
Place a small container under the carburetor. Loosen the drain screw to let any old fuel and gunk drip out. Tighten it back up once it’s empty.
Next, find the main jet. It’s usually a brass screw in the center of the carburetor. Spray some carburetor cleaner directly into this jet. You can find this cleaner at any auto parts store.
Let the cleaner sit for a few minutes to break down the gunk. Then, try to start the engine again. Sometimes this spray clean is all you need to get your snow blower running.
If it still won’t start, you might need to take the carb off for a full clean. This is a bit more work, but it’s very doable with basic tools.
Checking the Spark Plug for a Simple Fix
A bad spark plug is another common reason you can’t get your snow blower running. The plug makes the spark that ignites the fuel in the engine.
First, find the spark plug wire. It’s a thick rubber wire coming from the engine. Gently pull the boot off the end of the spark plug.
Use a spark plug socket wrench to remove the plug. Look at the end of the plug. The metal electrode should be a light tan or gray color.
If it’s black and sooty, or wet with fuel, that’s your problem. A black plug means the engine is running too rich. A wet plug means it’s getting fuel but no spark.
You can try to clean the plug with a wire brush. But for a few dollars, it’s easier to just put in a new one. Make sure you get the right type for your model.
Set the gap on the new plug with a gap tool. Check your owner’s manual for the right gap size. It’s usually between .025 and .030 inches.
Screw the new plug in by hand first so you don’t cross-thread it. Then tighten it with the wrench. Reconnect the wire, and try to start it. A new plug often gets a stubborn engine running.
What to Do If the Engine Has No Compression
If you’ve checked fuel and spark, the next step to get your snow blower running is to check compression. This is the engine’s ability to build pressure.
Low compression means the engine can’t build the pressure needed to run. You might notice the pull cord feels too easy to pull.
The most common cause is a stuck valve. This happens when the engine sits for a long time. Corrosion can make the valve stick open.
Remove the spark plug. Pour about a tablespoon of engine oil directly into the spark plug hole. Pull the starter cord a few times to spread the oil around.
Let the oil sit for an hour. It can help free up a stuck piston ring or valve. After waiting, try to start the engine again.
If the oil trick doesn’t work, you might have a broken recoil starter spring. This is the part that pulls the cord back in. You can buy a repair kit to fix this.
Severe compression loss could mean bigger engine damage. But try the simple fixes first. Most of the time, you can get your snow blower running without major repairs.
Getting Your Snow Blower Running After Summer Storage
Prepping your machine for storage is the best way to get your snow blower running easily next winter. A little work in the spring saves a lot of hassle in the fall.
At the end of the season, add fuel stabilizer to a full tank of gas. Run the engine for five minutes to get the treated gas into the carburetor.
While the engine is still warm, drain the old oil and put in fresh oil. Old oil gets acidic and can damage engine parts over the summer.
Disconnect the spark plug wire for safety. Then, pull the starter cord until you feel resistance. This closes the engine’s valves and protects them from moisture.
Store your snow blower in a dry place. Cover it with a breathable cover to keep dust off. Don’t use a plastic tarp, as it traps moisture.
When winter comes, your prepped machine should start right up. Just reconnect the spark plug wire, check the oil level, and you’re ready to go.
Following these storage steps is the surest way to get your snow blower running on the first pull. It takes minutes in spring and saves hours of frustration later.
Using the Right Oil to Keep It Running
The type of oil you use matters when you want to get your snow blower running well. Cold weather makes thick oil move like molasses.
Check your owner’s manual for the right oil weight. For most snow blowers in cold climates, use SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil. It flows easily when it’s freezing out.
Old, dirty oil can also cause starting problems. It gets sludgey and doesn’t lubricate the engine parts properly. This makes the engine hard to turn over.
Always check the oil level before you try to start the machine. There’s usually a dipstick or a sight glass on the side of the engine.
If the oil is low, top it up to the full mark. If it’s black and dirty, change it completely. You’ll need an oil drain pan and a fresh oil filter if your model has one.
Running an engine with no oil will destroy it fast. A quick oil check is a vital step to get your snow blower running and keep it running all season.
Change the oil at least once per season, or after every 25 hours of use. Clean oil is cheap engine insurance.
When the Pull Cord is Broken or Stuck
Sometimes the problem isn’t the engine, but the starter itself. If the pull cord won’t budge, the engine might be seized or locked up.
First, make sure the auger control lever is disengaged. If it’s engaged, the auger is locked and the engine can’t turn. This is a common safety feature.
If the controls are free and the cord is still stuck, remove the spark plug. Try to turn the engine by hand using the fan blade on top of the engine.
If it won’t turn, the piston might be rusted to the cylinder wall. Pour some penetrating oil into the spark plug hole. Let it soak for a day, then try again.
If the cord pulls out but doesn’t retract, the recoil spring is broken. You can buy a recoil starter repair kit. It comes with a new spring and instructions.
Replacing the recoil assembly is a common fix. It’s not too hard if you’re handy with tools. Take pictures as you take the old one apart so you remember how it goes back together.
A working pull cord is the first step to get your snow blower running. Fix this before you move on to fuel or spark issues.
Why the Choke and Throttle Settings Matter
Using the choke wrong is a big reason people can’t get their snow blower running. The choke helps the engine start when it’s cold by giving it more fuel.
When the engine is cold, set the choke to “Full” or “Closed.” This restricts air flow and makes the fuel mixture richer for starting.
As soon as the engine starts and warms up for 30 seconds, move the choke to “Half.” After another minute, move it to “Open” or “Run.”
Leaving the choke on full while running will flood the engine. A flooded engine gets too much fuel and won’t start. If you think it’s flooded, wait five minutes and try again with the choke off.
The throttle lever should be set to “Fast” or the rabbit symbol for starting. A slow throttle setting doesn’t give the engine enough fuel to catch.
Check your manual for the exact starting procedure for your model. Following these simple control steps is often the quickest way to get your snow blower running.
I’ve seen many machines that just needed the choke set right. It’s an easy thing to miss when you’re in a hurry to clear snow.
Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the first thing I should check to get my snow blower running?
Always check the gas first. Drain any old gas and put in fresh fuel. Bad gas is the cause of most starting problems.
My snow blower has new gas and a new spark plug but won’t start. What next?
Clean the carburetor next. Spray carb cleaner into the main jet. If that doesn’t work, you may need to take the carb apart for a deeper clean.
How can I get my snow blower running after it’s been sitting all summer?
Drain the old gas, put in fresh gas with stabilizer, and check the oil. The carburetor is probably gunked up from the old fuel and will need cleaning.
The pull cord is stuck and won’t move. How do I fix this?
Make sure the auger control is disengaged. If it’s still stuck, the engine might be seized. Try penetrating oil in the spark plug hole to free it up.
I flooded the engine. How long should I wait to get my snow blower running again?
Wait about five minutes with the choke off and the throttle on fast. Then pull the starter cord slowly a few times to clear out the extra fuel before trying to start it normally.
