Yes, you can do it yourself – learning how to empty gas from a snow blower is a key skill for spring storage. It stops fuel from going bad and clogging up your carburetor, which saves you a big repair bill later on.
Old gas left in the tank over summer turns into a gummy mess. This gunk can ruin your engine before next winter even starts. I’ve seen it happen to friends who skipped this simple step.
You don’t need to be a mechanic to handle this job. With a few basic tools and about 30 minutes, you can protect your machine. I’ll walk you through the safest and easiest ways to get it done.
This guide covers every method, from siphoning to running the engine dry. We’ll also talk about what to do with the old gas once you get it out. Let’s get your snow blower ready for its long summer nap.
Why You Must Empty the Gas Tank
Here’s the real talk. Gasoline doesn’t last forever. Modern fuel starts to break down in as little as 30 days.
When gas breaks down, it leaves behind sticky residues and varnish. These residues are the enemy of your snow blower’s small engine. They clog the tiny passages in the carburetor.
A clogged carburetor means your machine won’t start next season. You’ll be yanking the pull cord in a blizzard with no luck. The repair cost for a carb clean or replacement is often over a hundred bucks.
According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, proper fuel management reduces harmful emissions. It also prevents fuel spills that can hurt your soil and groundwater.
Emptying the tank is the single best thing you can do for winter tool care. It’s more important than changing the oil for long-term storage. Think of it as putting your engine to bed with a clean stomach.
The process of how to empty gas from a snow blower prevents all these headaches. It’s a cheap bit of upkeep that pays off big time.
Tools and Safety Gear You’ll Need
Gather your supplies before you start. You don’t want to be scrambling with a tank half-drained.
You need a fuel storage can for the old gas. Use one that’s clearly marked and meant for gasoline. Never use a milk jug or any container not designed for fuel.
Get a siphon pump or a hand pump. A simple $10 manual siphon from the auto parts store works great. Some folks use a turkey baster, but a pump is much faster and cleaner.
Wear safety glasses. Gasoline splashes are no joke, especially near your eyes. I also wear nitrile gloves to keep the fuel off my skin.
Have a bunch of clean rags ready. You will spill a few drops, I promise. An old towel on the ground under the machine catches drips.
Work in a well-ventilated area. Your garage with the door open is perfect. Never do this job in a closed basement or near any open flame, like a water heater pilot light.
Knowing how to empty gas from a snow blower safely means using the right gear. It’s simple stuff, but it makes the job smooth and safe.
Method 1: The Siphon Pump (Easiest Way)
This is my go-to method. It’s clean, fast, and gets almost every drop out.
First, make sure the engine is completely cool. You don’t want to siphon gas from a hot machine. Let it sit for a few hours after your last use.
Place your empty gas can on the ground, lower than the snow blower’s fuel tank. Gravity is your friend here. The fuel needs to flow downhill.
Insert the siphon tube into the snow blower’s gas tank. Push it all the way to the bottom. You want to get the fuel that’s sitting in the very bottom corner.
Pump the siphon a few times to start the flow. Once you see gas moving through the clear tube, it will keep going on its own. Let it drain until the tank is empty.
You might need to tilt the machine slightly. This helps the last bit of fuel pool near the siphon tube. Be careful not to tip it too far and spill oil.
This method shows you exactly how to empty gas from a snow blower without a mess. It leaves the fuel system intact and is great for partial drains too.
Method 2: Running the Engine Dry
Some people prefer to just run the tank empty. This method burns off the fuel instead of storing it.
Take your snow blower to an open area outside. You’ll be running it until it stops, which can take a few minutes.
Start the engine and let it run at idle. Don’t rev it high. Just let it chug along normally.
As it runs, the fuel level in the tank will slowly drop. The engine will start to sputter as it gets to the last few ounces. This is normal.
Let it run until it completely stalls out. Don’t try to restart it. The point is to have the carburetor and fuel lines as empty as possible.
I use this method when I know the gas is fresh and I want a quick job. It’s not the best if the gas is old and gummy, as that gunk gets sucked into the carburetor right before it dies.
Learning how to empty gas from a snow blower this way is simple, but know the downside. Any debris in the tank gets pulled into the engine at the very end.
Method 3: Using the Fuel Line Drain
Many snow blowers have a small drain plug on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. This is a very direct drain point.
Locate the carburetor under the air filter. It’s a small metal or plastic box where the fuel line connects. Look for a small screw or bolt on its very bottom.
Place your gas can directly underneath this drain plug. You might need a small funnel to direct the flow into the can’s opening.
Use the correct size wrench to slowly loosen the drain plug. Turn it just enough for fuel to start dripping out. Catch all the drips in your container.
Let it drain completely. Once it stops dripping, tighten the plug back up snugly. Don’t over-tighten it, as you can strip the soft metal threads.
This method is messier than siphoning. You often get fuel running down the side of the engine. Have those rags ready to wipe up any spills right away.
It’s another valid way for how to empty gas from a snow blower, especially if your siphon tube won’t fit in the tank opening. Check your owner’s manual to see if your model has this feature.
What to Do With the Old Gasoline
You’ve got a can of old gas now. You can’t just pour it down the drain or on the ground.
First, check how old and how bad it is. If it’s from last season and smells like normal gas, you might be able to reuse it. Mix it with a lot of fresh gas in your lawn mower.
Never use questionable gas in a small engine like your snow blower. These engines are picky. Use it in an old car or truck if you have one, as they handle bad fuel better.
If the gas is over a year old or smells sour, it’s trash. You need to dispose of it as hazardous waste. Look up your local household hazardous waste collection days.
Many towns have drop-off sites for old oil, paint, and gas. The EPA website has tools to find a location near you. It’s usually free for residents.
Some auto parts stores also take old gasoline for a fee. Call around before you drive over. Never mix it with oil to try and dispose of it.
Part of knowing how to empty gas from a snow blower is dealing with the waste responsibly. It’s a small effort that keeps our water and soil clean.
Step-by-Step Guide for Winter Storage
Emptying the gas is just one step. Here’s the full shutdown routine I follow every spring.
After you empty the fuel, start the engine and let it run until it dies. This clears the carburetor float bowl. It ensures no fuel is left in the tiny internal passages.
Change the engine oil while it’s warm. Old oil has acids that can damage engine parts over months of sitting. Fresh oil coats everything in a protective layer.
Remove the spark plug. Squirt a teaspoon of fresh engine oil into the cylinder. Pull the starter cord a few times to spread the oil, then put the plug back in. This prevents rust on the cylinder walls.
Give the whole machine a good cleaning. Hose off any caked-on salt and dirt from the auger and chute. Dry it thoroughly to prevent rust spots.
Check the scraper bar and skid shoes for wear. Order new ones now so you have them ready for next season. Fall is a busy time for parts.
Store it in a dry place, off the concrete floor if you can. Put a board under the tires. Cover it with a breathable tarp, not plastic, to keep dust off.
Following this full guide on how to empty gas from a snow blower and store it means it will start on the first pull next winter. It’s a great feeling when that first snow flies.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
I’ve made some of these errors myself. Learn from my mistakes so you don’t have to.
Don’t leave fuel in with a stabilizer and think you’re safe. Stabilizers slow the breakdown, but they don’t stop it forever. For storage over 6 months, an empty tank is still the best policy.
Avoid using air pressure to blow out fuel lines. You can force debris further into the carburetor’s tiny jets. This almost guarantees a clog.
Never tip the snow blower on its side or upside down to drain it. Oil can flow into the cylinder head or air filter, creating a huge mess and a hard start.
Don’t forget about the fuel in the primer bulb and the small fuel filter. These little spots hold gas too. Running the engine dry usually clears them, but check your model.
Avoid using dirty funnels or containers when draining. You don’t want to introduce dirt into your storage can or, worse, back into the engine next year.
Rushing the job is a big mistake. Take your time. A few extra minutes of careful work prevents hours of frustration later. The right way to learn how to empty gas from a snow blower is to be patient.
When to Call a Professional
Most of the time, this is a DIY job. But sometimes, you need to call for help.
If your fuel shutoff valve is stuck or broken, don’t force it. A small plastic part can snap easily. A repair shop can replace it cheaply.
Call a pro if you see signs of major corrosion in the tank. If the inside of the tank is rusting, draining the gas is just a temporary fix. The rust flakes will keep clogging your system.
If you’ve tried to drain it and the engine still won’t start next year, it’s time. You likely have a gummed-up carburetor that needs a professional cleaning or rebuild kit.
According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration, if you have a large fuel spill (more than a gallon), you may need to report it. A pro can handle disposal safely.
If you’re not comfortable with tools at all, that’s okay. Paying for a yearly tune-up that includes fuel drainage is a smart investment. It’s cheaper than
