Yes, you should winterize your snowblower before storing it for the warm months. Learning how to winterize snowblower the right way keeps it running great for next season and saves you a lot of money on fixes.
I see it every spring. People pull out their snowblower and it won’t start. The engine is gummed up from old gas. The parts are rusty. It’s a big headache you can avoid.
I’ve been fixing small engines for years. The number one reason they fail is bad storage. Taking a few simple steps now makes a huge difference later.
This guide will show you the easy way to do it. You don’t need to be a mechanic. Just follow these simple steps.
What Does It Mean to Winterize a Snowblower?
Let’s break it down simply. Winterizing means getting your machine ready for a long sleep. It’s not for using in winter. It’s for storing it after winter.
You need to protect the engine and the metal parts. The main enemies are old gas and moisture. Old gas turns into a sticky mess inside the carburetor.
Moisture makes metal parts rust. This ruins the auger and the impeller. Rusty parts don’t move snow well. They can even break.
The goal is to stop these problems before they start. The process of how to winterize snowblower focuses on fuel and protection. It’s simple upkeep.
Think of it like putting your garden hose away for winter. You drain the water so it doesn’t freeze and crack. This is the same idea for your snowblower’s engine.
It might seem like extra work now. But it saves you hours of frustration next November. Trust me on this one.
Why You Must Learn How to Winterize Snowblower
Here’s the real talk. Skipping this job will cost you. A carburetor cleaning can cost over a hundred dollars. A new fuel line isn’t cheap either.
Old ethanol gas is the biggest killer. Most gas today has ethanol in it. Ethanol absorbs water from the air. This water sits in your fuel system.
Over months, this mix turns into a gummy varnish. It clogs the tiny jets in the carburetor. Your engine can’t get fuel. It won’t start.
Rust is the other silent killer. The shiny metal auger can get covered in red rust. Rust makes the metal weak. It can snap under a heavy load of wet snow.
The Consumer Reports team says proper storage extends equipment life. They recommend fuel treatment for any seasonal tool.
Learning how to winterize snowblower protects your investment. A good snowblower isn’t a cheap buy. Taking care of it makes sense.
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Winterize Snowblower
Let’s get to the good part. Here is my simple process. You can do this in about an hour. Grab some basic tools first.
You’ll need a fuel stabilizer, a socket set, and some fresh oil. A garden hose helps for cleaning. Have a fuel container ready for the old gas.
First, run the engine to warm it up. This makes the oil drain better. Do this outside where there’s good air flow. Never run an engine in a closed space.
Next, add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. Follow the directions on the bottle. Then run the engine for five more minutes. This pulls the treated gas into the carburetor.
Now, you need to drain the old fuel. Turn off the fuel valve if your model has one. Let the engine run until it stops from lack of gas. This empties the carburetor bowl.
This step is key for how to winterize snowblower the right way. An empty carburetor won’t get gummed up. It’s clean and ready for next year.
Changing the Oil During Snowblower Winterization
Don’t skip the oil change. Old oil has acids and dirt in it. These can damage engine parts over the summer.
Check your owner’s manual for the right oil type. Most snowblowers use SAE 5W-30. Make sure you get the correct amount too.
Place a drain pan under the engine. Find the drain plug. It’s usually on the bottom of the engine. Use a socket wrench to remove it.
Let all the old oil drip out. This might take a few minutes. Tip the machine slightly to get the last bits out. Be careful not to spill.
Put the drain plug back in. Tighten it snugly, but don’t over-tighten. You could strip the threads. That’s a bad day.
Now, add the fresh new oil. Use a funnel to avoid spills. Fill it to the line on the dipstick. Wipe the dipstick, check it again, and you’re done.
Properly learning how to winterize snowblower includes this oil step. Fresh oil coats the engine parts. It protects them from rust during storage.
Protecting the Auger and Impeller
The moving parts need love too. The auger is that big spiral screw that grabs snow. The impeller is the fan that throws it out the chute.
These parts are often bare metal. Moisture makes them rust. A rusty auger doesn’t dig into ice well. It just spins on top.
First, give them a good cleaning. Use a brush or a putty knife to scrape off caked-on snow and ice. You can use a garden hose for a final rinse.
Let everything dry completely. I mean bone dry. Water left on the metal will cause rust spots. Use an old towel to help it along.
Once it’s dry, apply a light coat of oil. Use a rag with some motor oil on it. Wipe it on the auger paddles and the impeller blades.
This thin oil film blocks air and moisture. It’s a simple shield. This is a pro tip for how to winterize snowblower that many people miss.
Check the shear pins too. These are the bolts designed to break if you hit a rock. Make sure they are not bent or damaged. Replace them if they look bad.
Fuel System Care: The Heart of Winterization
This is the most important system. A failed fuel system means a dead machine. Taking care of it is the core of how to winterize snowblower.
You already ran the stabilizer through. That’s great. Now, let’s look at the fuel tank itself. Is it full or empty? There are two schools of thought.
Some say keep it full with treated gas. This stops moisture from forming inside the tank. The treated gas won’t go bad over months.
Others say drain it completely. An empty tank can’t have bad gas. But an empty tank can still rust inside from humid air.
I prefer the full tank method. I add fuel stabilizer, fill the tank to the top, and run the engine. The EPA notes that stabilized fuel can last over a year.
If you choose to drain it, do it safely. Use a siphon pump into a proper gas can. Never suck on a hose to start the siphon. That’s dangerous.
Dispose of old gas at a hazardous waste site. Don’t pour it on the ground or down a drain. It’s bad for the environment.
How to Winterize Snowblower Electrical Parts
Don’t forget the spark plug and the battery. These small parts are easy to overlook. But they are critical for starting.
Start with the spark plug. Use a spark plug socket to remove it. Look at the electrode. Is it black and sooty? Is the gap huge?
If it looks worn, just replace it. A new spark plug is cheap insurance. It gives you a strong spark for an easy start next year.
If it looks good, you can clean it. Use a wire brush to clean off any carbon. Check the gap with a feeler gauge. Set it to what your manual says.
Before you put it back, pour a teaspoon of oil into the spark plug hole. This coats the cylinder walls. It prevents rust on the piston and rings.
Now, pull the starter cord slowly a few times. This spreads the oil around. Don’t plug the spark plug back in yet. You don’t want to start it.
For electric start models, care for the battery. Remove the battery if you can. Store it in a cool, dry place. Put it on a trickle charger over the summer.
Final Storage Tips After You Winterize
You’re almost done. The hard work is over. Now, put the machine away the right way. Where you store it matters.
Find a clean, dry spot. A garage or shed is perfect. Don’t leave it outside under a tarp. Moisture will still get in and cause problems.
Put the snowblower on a piece of wood or a pallet. Don’t let the tires sit directly on concrete. Concrete can draw moisture and cause flat spots on the tires.
Engage the auger control lever. This releases tension on the drive belt. Belts can stretch if left under tension for months. This simple step saves the belt.
Cover the machine with a breathable cloth cover. Don’t use a plastic tarp. Plastic traps moisture underneath. That creates a perfect rust environment.
Label it if you need to. Write “WINTERIZED” on a piece of tape and stick it on the handle. This way you remember you did the job. You won’t wonder next fall.
Following this full guide on how to winterize snowblower ensures it’s ready. When the first snow flies, you’ll be glad you took the time.
Common Mistakes People Make
I see the same errors every year. People mean well, but they skip a step. Or they do something that causes more harm.
The biggest mistake is just parking it with gas in the tank. They think, “I’ll deal with it later.” Later comes, and the gas is like syrup. The engine is toast.
Another error is using the wrong oil. They put car oil in a small engine. These oils have different additives. They can damage the engine seals over time.
People forget to check the skid shoes. These are the metal plates on the bottom edges. They wear down and let the auger housing scrape the driveway.
Not cleaning the machine is a common oversight. Salt and dirt from the driveway eat away at the paint and metal. A quick wash prevents this corrosion.
Storing it with the chute crank tight is another one. The cable can stretch or get a kink in it. Loosen the tension before you put it away.
Avoid these pitfalls. Your process for how to winterize snowblower will be solid. You’ll avoid the common headaches.
Tools and Supplies You Will Need
You don’t need a fancy toolbox. A few basic items will get the job done. Here’s a simple shopping list.
First, get a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil. This is non-negotiable. It’s a few dollars and saves your engine. Get the kind for ethanol gas.
You need the right oil. Check your manual. Have a drain pan ready to catch the old oil. A funnel helps pour the new oil in cleanly.
A socket set is useful. You’ll need it for the drain plug and maybe the spark plug. A set with sizes from 8mm to 17mm covers most needs.
A spark plug gap tool is handy. It’s a little disk with wires of different thickness. It helps you set the perfect gap for a strong spark.
Have some clean rags on hand. You’ll use them for wiping oil and cleaning parts. An old toothbrush
