Yes, you need to learn how to winterize a snowblower before storing it. This simple process keeps your machine safe from damage and ready for next winter’s first storm.
I see it every spring. People pull out their snowblower and it won’t start. The fuel has turned to gunk and parts are rusty. It’s a real headache you can avoid.
I’ve winterized my own snowblower for years. It’s not hard if you follow the right steps. You just need a little time and a few basic tools.
This guide will walk you through the whole thing. We’ll cover fuel, oil, and protecting the machine. Let’s get your snowblower ready for its long summer nap.
What Does It Mean to Winterize a Snowblower?
You might think winterizing is for boats. But it’s just as important for your snowblower. The goal is to protect it while it sits unused.
When you learn how to winterize a snowblower, you fight two main enemies. The first is old fuel that turns into a sticky mess. The second is moisture that causes rust.
Leaving fuel in the tank all summer is a bad idea. It breaks down and clogs the tiny passages in the carburetor. This is the number one reason snowblowers fail to start.
Moisture is the other big problem. It gets into the engine and the auger housing. This leads to rust on metal parts over several months.
The process to winterize a snowblower stops these problems. You’ll use a fuel stabilizer and run the engine dry. You’ll also add a protective oil coating to key parts.
Think of it as tucking your machine into bed for the summer. A little care now saves you a lot of trouble later. It’s the smart way to end the snow season.
Why You Must Learn How to Winterize a Snowblower
Let me be honest. Skipping this job seems easy in the moment. You’re tired of winter and just want to be done. But the cost of skipping is high.
Repairing a gummed-up carburetor can cost over $100. Replacing a rusted-out auger costs even more. These are fixes you can avoid with simple upkeep.
The Consumer Reports guide to winterizing lawn equipment makes the same point. Stale fuel is the top cause of small engine failure. The same rule applies to your snowblower.
Learning how to winterize a snowblower also keeps you safe. Old fuel is more likely to cause a fire hazard in your shed. Proper storage reduces this risk a lot.
It gives you peace of mind too. You’ll know your machine is protected. When that first big snow hits, you’ll be ready to go without any stress.
This isn’t a hard or expensive job. You probably have most of the supplies already. The real investment is your time, and it pays off big.
Gather Your Supplies to Winterize a Snowblower
First, let’s get your tools together. You don’t need anything fancy. Most items are already in your garage or shed.
You will need a fuel stabilizer. This is a liquid you add to your gas can. Brands like Sta-Bil are common and work great.
Get a fresh gas can and fill it with new fuel. Mix the stabilizer right into this fresh gas. This becomes your “treated” fuel for the final step.
Have a siphon pump or a turkey baster ready. You’ll use this to remove the old fuel from the snowblower’s tank. A funnel is helpful too.
Grab a can of engine oil and your owner’s manual. You’ll check the oil level and may need to change it. The manual tells you the right type to use.
Find a spray lubricant like WD-40 or a similar product. This protects metal parts from rust. A clean rag is also good to have on hand.
Finally, make sure you have your socket set or wrenches. You might need them to remove the spark plug. That’s all you need to start learning how to winterize a snowblower.
Step 1: Handle the Fuel System
This is the most critical step. Bad fuel ruins more engines than anything else. We need to get the old gas out.
Start by running the engine for a few minutes. This warms it up and makes the fuel flow easier. Do this outside where there’s good air flow.
Turn the engine off. Now, use your siphon to pull the old gas out of the tank. Get out as much as you can. Dump this old fuel into a proper container.
Here’s a key tip. Don’t just leave the tank empty. An empty tank can still rust inside from moisture in the air. We need to fill it with protected fuel.
Take your fresh gas can with the stabilizer mixed in. Fill the snowblower’s tank almost to the top with this treated fuel. This step is core to how to winterize a snowblower properly.
Now, start the engine again. Let it run for five to ten minutes. This pulls the stabilized fuel through the carburetor and fuel lines.
This coats everything inside with the good, protected fuel. It pushes out the last bits of old gas. Turn the engine off and you’re done with fuel.
Step 2: Change the Engine Oil
Old oil holds acids and dirt from the engine. Letting it sit all summer can damage internal parts. Changing it is a smart move.
Run the engine for a minute or two to warm the oil. Warm oil drains faster and more completely. Then, turn the engine off.
Place a drain pan under the engine’s oil drain plug. Find the plug using your owner’s manual. Unscrew it and let all the old oil flow out.
While the oil drains, check the old oil. Look for metal flakes or a milky color. These are signs of bigger problems you might need to fix.
Once it’s fully drained, put the drain plug back in. Tighten it snugly, but don’t over-tighten it. Now, add the new oil through the fill hole.
Use the type and amount of oil listed in your manual. Pour slowly and check the dipstick as you go. Stop when you reach the “Full” mark.
This oil change is a major part of how to winterize a snowblower. Clean oil protects the engine during its long rest. It’s ready for a fresh start next year.
Step 3: Protect the Engine Cylinder
The piston and cylinder walls inside the engine can rust. Moisture from the air gets in through the exhaust or spark plug hole. We need to stop that.
First, locate the spark plug. It’s usually on the side of the engine with a thick wire attached. Pull the wire boot off the top of the plug.
Use a spark plug socket to remove the plug. Turn it counter-clockwise until it comes out. Be careful not to drop any dirt into the hole.
Now, get your engine oil. Pour about a tablespoon of fresh oil into the spark plug hole. This is a trick every small engine mechanic knows.
After adding the oil, pull the starter cord slowly a few times. This spreads the oil around the cylinder walls. It coats the metal with a protective film.
Put the spark plug back in. Don’t reconnect the wire yet. We’ll leave it off for storage to prevent any accidental starts.
This step might seem small. But it’s a pro tip for how to winterize a snowblower engine. That thin oil film fights rust all summer long.
Step 4: Lubricate All Moving Parts
Your snowblower has many joints and pivots. The auger control cables, the chute turn mechanism, and the drive system all need love.
Start with the auger shaft. Look where the metal shaft goes into the housing. Spray a light lubricant on these points to keep them free.
Find all the grease fittings or zerks. These are little nipples you attach a grease gun to. Give each one a pump of fresh grease.
If your model doesn’t have fittings, don’t worry. Just spray a light oil on the pivot points. Work the controls back and forth to work the oil in.
Check the skid shoes on the bottom. These are the metal parts that slide on the ground. Spray their edges to prevent them from rusting solid.
Don’t forget the chute rotation mechanism. Turn it and spray the gear or pivot area. A dry, rusty chute is a real pain to deal with.
Lubrication is the “finishing touch” when you winterize a snowblower. It ensures everything moves smoothly next season. It only takes a few minutes but makes a big difference.
Step 5: Clean and Protect the Exterior
A clean machine lasts longer. Dirt and salt hold moisture against the metal. This speeds up rust and corrosion.
Use a brush or a damp rag to wipe down the entire machine. Get rid of caked-on snow, salt, and dirt. Pay special attention to the auger housing.
Let the snowblower dry completely. You can leave it in the sun for an hour. Any leftover moisture will cause problems later.
Once it’s dry, spray a light coating of lubricant on all exposed metal. This includes the auger blades, the scraper bar, and the chute.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) suggests proper care to make equipment last. This reduces waste and saves you money in the long run.
If you have a two-stage snowblower, check the rubber paddles on the auger. Look for cracks or tears. Replace them now if needed, so you don’t forget.
A final clean-up is a satisfying end to the process of how to winterize a snowblower. You’re putting it away in its best condition. It’s ready for a long, safe rest.
Common Mistakes When You Winterize a Snowblower
People often make the same few errors. Knowing them helps you avoid trouble. Let’s go through the big ones.
The top mistake is just adding stabilizer to old gas. This doesn’t work well. You must run the treated, fresh fuel through the whole system.
Another error is forgetting the oil change. They think, “I’ll do it next fall.” But dirty oil sitting for months can damage engine bearings.
Some folks store the snowblower with the fuel valve turned off but the tank full of old gas. The gas still breaks down and gums up the carburetor bowl.
Leaving the battery connected is a common oversight. If your model has an electric start, the battery will drain and sulfate over the summer. Disconnect the negative cable.
Storing it outside under a tarp is risky. Moisture gets trapped underneath. It’s much better to keep it in a dry shed or garage.
Finally, people skip the owner’s manual. Your specific model might have unique needs. The manual has the exact steps for how to winterize a snowblower like yours.
Tips for Easy Snowblower Winterizing
I’ve picked up some tricks over the years. They make the job faster and better. Try these next time.
Do the work on a nice day. It’s more pleasant and the machine will dry faster. Don’t wait for the last rainy day of spring.
Label your gas can. Write “Treated – For Storage” on it with a marker. This way you won’t mix it up with your lawn mower gas.
Take a picture with your phone after you finish. Show where you left the controls and the fuel valve.
