Yes, you can prepare your snow blower for winter in about an hour. Learning how to prepare snow blower for winter right saves you from a cold, frustrating morning when the first big storm hits.
I’ve been there. You wait for the first snow, pull the starter cord, and nothing happens. The engine just coughs. It’s a terrible way to start your day.
But it doesn’t have to be that way. A little work now makes a huge difference later. I’ll show you the simple steps that work every time.
This guide walks you through the whole process. We’ll cover fuel, oil, parts, and a final check. You’ll be ready for anything Old Man Winter throws at you.
Why You Must Prepare Your Snow Blower Now
Don’t wait for the first snowflake. That’s the biggest mistake people make. You want your machine ready to go.
A prepared snow blower starts on the first or second pull. An unprepared one might not start at all. You’ll be out there in the cold, getting more and more angry.
Stale fuel is the main villain here. Gas left in the tank over summer turns into a gummy mess. It clogs the tiny passages in your carburetor.
This gunk stops fuel from reaching the engine. No fuel means no start. It’s that simple. The Consumer Reports team says fuel issues cause most small engine problems.
Other parts need love too. Belts can get brittle after sitting. Shear pins might be rusty or broken. You don’t want to find out during a storm.
Think of this prep work as an investment. An hour of your time now saves you hours of headache later. It’s a great trade.
Step 1: The Fuel System Check
This is the most important step. How you handle fuel decides if your blower will start. Let’s get it right.
First, check the fuel tank. Is there old gas in there from last season? If yes, you need to drain it all out. Old gas is no good.
Use a siphon pump or a turkey baster to pull the old fuel out. Dump it into a proper gas can. Don’t pour it on the ground or down a drain.
Now, add fresh gasoline. Use ethanol-free fuel if you can find it. Ethanol attracts water and causes problems in small engines.
Next, add a fuel stabilizer to the fresh gas. This is a liquid you mix in. It keeps the gas from going bad while your blower sits.
Run the engine for a few minutes after adding the stabilized fuel. This gets the treated gas into the carburetor and fuel lines. It coats everything.
Finally, turn the fuel valve to “off” if your model has one. This simple habit prevents leaks and keeps the system sealed.
Step 2: Changing the Engine Oil
Your snow blower’s engine needs clean oil. Dirty oil causes wear and makes the engine work harder. It can even lead to a breakdown.
Check your owner’s manual first. It will tell you the right type and amount of oil to use. Don’t just guess.
Place the blower on a flat surface. Let the engine cool down if you just ran it. Hot oil can burn you.
Find the drain plug on the bottom of the engine. Put a drain pan underneath it. Unscrew the plug and let all the old oil flow out.
Once it’s empty, put the drain plug back in. Make sure it’s snug but don’t overtighten it. You could strip the threads.
Now, find the oil fill cap. It’s usually on top of the engine. Use a funnel to pour in the new oil. Check the dipstick to make sure you don’t overfill it.
Proper oil is cheap insurance for your engine. The Environmental Protection Agency has guides on recycling your old motor oil properly. Don’t just toss it.
Step 3: Inspecting Key Parts
Now let’s look at the parts that do the actual work. These are the auger, the impeller, and the drive system. A visual check finds problems early.
Start with the auger. These are the spinning blades at the front that grab the snow. Look for any cracks or dents in the metal paddles.
Check the shear pins or bolts that connect the auger to the shaft. These are designed to break if you hit a rock. Make sure they are not sheared already. Have a few new ones on hand.
Look at the rubber or plastic paddles on two-stage blowers. Are they worn down or cracked? Replace them if they look bad. Worn paddles don’t move snow well.
Next, check the scraper bar at the bottom. This is the piece that scrapes the pavement clean. If it’s worn down to metal, it can scratch your driveway. Replace it.
Inspect the belts that drive the auger and wheels. Look for cracks, fraying, or a glossy appearance. A bad belt can snap under load.
Finally, check the tires or tracks. Inflate tires to the pressure listed in your manual. Look for cracks in the rubber. Make sure tracks are tight and not loose.
Step 4: Spark Plug and Battery Care
A strong spark is needed to ignite the fuel. A weak spark plug causes hard starting and poor performance. It’s an easy fix.
First, locate the spark plug. It’s a small, porcelain-coated part with a wire attached to the top. Pull the wire boot off carefully.
Use a spark plug socket to remove the old plug. Look at the electrode tip. Is it black and sooty? Is the gap huge? If yes, just put in a new one.
You can buy a new plug for a few dollars. Make sure it’s the right model for your engine. Set the gap with a feeler gauge if needed.
Hand-tighten the new plug first. Then give it a small turn with the socket. Don’t crank it down super hard. Reattach the spark plug wire.
For electric start models, check the battery. Is it a removable type? Take it out and give it a full charge with a battery tender.
If the battery is more than three years old, think about replacing it. A weak battery won’t turn the engine over on a cold day. It’s better to be safe.
Step 5: Lubrication and Final Adjustments
Metal parts rubbing together need grease or oil. This stops rust and makes controls easy to move. Don’t skip this step.
Find all the grease fittings or “zerks” on your machine. These are little nipples where you attach a grease gun. Pump grease into each one until you see it seep out.
If your blower doesn’t have fittings, use a spray lubricant. Spray it on the auger shaft, the chute pivot points, and the wheel axles. Wipe off any extra.
Work all the controls. Turn the chute left and right. Adjust the chute deflector up and down. Does everything move smoothly?
If a control is stiff, spray more lubricant on the pivot point. Work it back and forth until it moves freely. You’ll thank yourself during a storm.
Check the skid shoes on the sides. These adjust the clearing height. Make sure they are even on both sides. Adjust them if one is worn more than the other.
Finally, give the whole machine a quick wipe-down. Get rid of any dirt, grass, or old grease. A clean machine is easier to work on later.
Step 6: The Pre-Storm Start-Up Test
Never assume it will work. Do a test start a week or two before snow is forecast. This gives you time to fix any last-minute issues.
Take the blower outside or to a well-ventilated area. You don’t want to breathe the exhaust fumes. Make sure the area is clear.
Turn the fuel valve to “on”. Set the choke if your engine has one. Pull the starter cord slowly a few times. This pulls fuel into the carburetor.
Now, give it a firm, full pull. The engine should start or at least cough. If it starts, let it run for five minutes. Listen for any strange noises.
Engage the auger control. The blades at the front should spin. Engage the drive control. The wheels or tracks should move. Make sure all safety features work.
If it doesn’t start, don’t panic. Go back to the fuel system. Did you use fresh, stabilized gas? Is the spark plug good? The Occupational Safety and Health Administration has tips for safe small engine maintenance.
Fix any issues now. Then store the blower in a dry place. You are officially ready for winter.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
People often mess up the same things. Knowing these mistakes helps you avoid them. Let’s go through the big ones.
First, using old gas. I said it before, but it’s worth repeating. Old gas is the number one cause of failure. Always start with fresh fuel.
Second, forgetting the shear pins. You hit a hidden newspaper or a rock, and *snap*. If you don’t have a spare pin, you’re done blowing snow.
Third, not checking the scraper bar. A worn bar lets snow get under the blower. You leave a thin, packed layer of snow on the driveway. It turns to ice.
Fourth, storing the blower with the chute cranked all the way to one side. This puts stress on the cable or linkage. Store it in a neutral position.
Fifth, ignoring strange noises during the test run. A clunk or grind means something is wrong. Find and fix it before the real snow comes.
Sixth, using the wrong oil. Your car’s oil is not right for your snow blower. Use the small engine oil type listed in your manual.
Essential Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
You don’t need a fancy garage. A few basic tools get the job done. Here’s a simple shopping list for your trip to the hardware store.
Get a siphon pump for draining old fuel. A cheap one works fine. You’ll also need a gas can for the fresh gasoline and a fuel stabilizer.
Buy the correct engine oil and a funnel. A drain pan is good for catching the old oil. Have some rags or paper towels handy for spills.
You need a set of wrenches and sockets. A spark plug socket is key. A grease gun is great if your machine has fittings. Otherwise, a can of spray lubricant works.
Pick up spare shear pins and a new spark plug. Get the model numbers from your owner’s manual. It’s frustrating to buy the wrong part.
A tire pressure gauge is useful for checking wheel inflation. A battery tender is a must for electric start models. It keeps the battery charged and healthy.
Finally, keep your owner’s manual nearby. It has all the specs for your specific model. The NHTSA recommends following manufacturer guides for all equipment maintenance.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I prepare my snow blower for winter?
Do it in the fall, before the first freeze. Late October or early November is a good time. This gives you a window to fix any problems.
Can I use the gas left in the can from my lawn mower?
Maybe, but it’s risky. If that gas
