Yes, you can do it yourself – learning how to put a belt on a snowblower is a key repair skill that saves you money and time. The process is straightforward if you follow the right steps and take your time.
That broken belt can stop your machine cold on a snowy day. I’ve been there, and it’s not fun. You just want to clear your driveway, not deal with a repair.
But here’s the good news. This is a fix you can handle. I’ve done it many times on different models. With a few tools and some patience, you’ll be back in business.
This guide will walk you through the whole thing. We’ll cover everything from finding the right belt to the final tension check. Let’s get your snowblower running again.
What You Need to Know First
Before you start, you need to understand your machine. Not all snowblowers are the same inside.
There are usually two belts. One drives the auger, and one drives the wheels. You need to know which one broke. The process for how to put a belt on a snowblower is similar, but the path might change.
Grab your owner’s manual. It has a diagram that shows the belt routing. This is your map for the job. If you lost it, don’t worry. Many brands have them online.
You also need the right replacement belt. The part number is in the manual or on the old belt itself. An auto parts store can often match it if you bring the old one.
Finally, make sure the machine is off and the spark plug is disconnected. Safety first. You don’t want the engine to kick on while your hands are near moving parts.
Gather Your Tools and Parts
You don’t need fancy tools for this job. A basic set will get it done. Here’s what I always have ready.
You’ll need a socket set and wrenches. Most bolts on a snowblower are standard sizes, like 1/2 inch or 9/16 inch. A pair of pliers helps for holding nuts.
A flathead screwdriver is useful for prying and guiding. You might need it to help slip the new belt onto a pulley. A rubber mallet can help tap parts back into place without damage.
Of course, you need the new belt. Make sure it’s the exact match for your model. Using the wrong size can cause quick wear or poor performance.
I also keep a flashlight handy. It helps you see into tight spaces under the machine. A clean rag is good for wiping grease off your hands and the pulleys.
Step 1: Access the Belt Area
The first real step is to get to the belt. This usually means removing a cover or housing. It sounds harder than it is.
On many two-stage snowblowers, you remove the auger housing cover. This is the big metal casing around the spinning auger. It’s held on by several bolts around the edge.
Use your socket wrench to take these bolts out. Keep them in a cup or tray so they don’t get lost. Sometimes you need to remove the shear pins from the auger shaft first.
On some models, you access the belt from the top or side. Check your manual for the best way. The goal is to see the pulleys and the path the belt takes.
Once the cover is off, take a picture with your phone. A photo of the belt routing before you remove anything is a lifesaver. It shows you exactly how to put a belt on a snowblower when it’s time to reassemble.
Step 2: Remove the Old Belt
Now you need to take the broken belt off. Look for the belt tensioner first. This is a spring-loaded pulley that keeps the belt tight.
You need to release the tension. Often, you can push the tensioner pulley by hand to create slack. Use your screwdriver as a lever if it’s stiff. Some models have a bolt you loosen to move the tensioner.
With the tension released, slip the old belt off the pulleys. Start with the smallest pulley, usually the engine drive pulley. Then work it off the larger auger or wheel pulleys.
Inspect the old belt and the pulleys. Look for cracks or glazing on the belt. Check the pulleys for damage or debris. A damaged pulley can ruin a new belt fast.
Clean the pulley grooves with your rag. Dirt and old rubber can sit in there and cause slippage. A clean surface helps the new belt grip properly.
Step 3: Route the New Belt
This is the core of learning how to put a belt on a snowblower. You must follow the exact path. Use your photo from earlier as a guide.
Start by placing the new belt over the engine drive pulley. This is the pulley connected directly to the engine’s crankshaft. It’s often the smallest one and can be tricky to reach.
Then, route the belt around the idler pulleys. These are the free-spinning pulleys that guide the belt. They don’t drive anything but are crucial for the correct path.
Finally, loop the belt onto the large driven pulley. This is the one that turns the auger or the wheels. You may need to rotate this pulley by hand to help the belt seat into the groove.
Keep the belt loose as you route it. Don’t try to fight it onto tight pulleys yet. Just get it sitting in the general path of all the pulleys. The tensioner will tighten it later.
Step 4: Engage the Tensioner and Check Alignment
Once the belt is routed, you need to apply tension. Slowly release the tensioner you were holding back. Let the spring pull the pulley against the belt.
You should feel resistance. The belt should be snug, not guitar-string tight. A good rule is you should be able to press the belt down about 1/2 inch in the middle of the longest span.
Now, check that the belt is seated in every pulley groove. Look from the side. The belt should not be riding up on the edge of any pulley. It should sit flush in the center.
Manually turn the engine pulley by hand. Watch the belt travel its full path. It should run smoothly without jumping or trying to come off. This is a key test before you put the cover back on.
If the belt looks crooked or wants to walk off a pulley, the alignment is off. An idler pulley might be bent. You may need to loosen a bracket and adjust it slightly.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test
You’re almost done. Now you need to put the machine back together. This is the reverse of your disassembly.
Carefully place the housing cover back over the auger. Line up all the bolt holes. It might take a little wiggling to get it just right. Don’t force it.
Insert and hand-tighten all the bolts you removed earlier. Then, use your wrench to snug them down evenly. Go in a criss-cross pattern, like tightening a car tire. This prevents warping the cover.
Reconnect the spark plug wire you disconnected for safety. Now you can do a test run. Start the engine in a clear, open area.
Engage the auger control lever slowly. Listen for any squealing or grinding sounds. Watch for smoke, which means the belt is too tight and burning. If all sounds smooth, you did it. You learned how to put a belt on a snowblower successfully.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
People often make a few simple errors. Knowing them ahead of time saves you trouble.
The biggest mistake is forcing the belt. If it won’t go on, you probably missed a step. Check that the tensioner is fully released. Forcing can damage the belt cords.
Another error is incorrect routing. One pulley out of order will stop the machine from working. Always double-check against your photo or the manual diagram.
Overtightening the belt is common. A super-tight belt puts strain on the engine bearings and the pulley shafts. It will wear out much faster and can cause other parts to fail.
Forgetting to clean the pulleys is another slip-up. Grit acts like sandpaper on the new belt. Always wipe out the grooves before you install the new one.
Finally, rushing the job leads to mistakes. This isn’t a race. Take your time at each step. A careful hour of work is better than a quick job you have to redo.
Tips for an Easier Job
A few tricks can make the process smoother. I’ve picked these up over the years.
Use a belt dressing spray sparingly. A tiny bit on the inside of a new belt can help it seat into the grooves. Don’t overdo it, as it can attract dirt later.
If a pulley is hard to turn, check its bearing. Spray a little lubricant like WD-40 on the center post. A frozen pulley will burn through belts quickly.
Label your bolts if you’re worried. Use masking tape and a marker to note where each one came from. This helps if the bolts are different lengths.
Work on a clean, flat surface. The garage floor is fine, but put down a piece of cardboard. It keeps small parts from rolling away and is easier on your knees.
If you get stuck, don’t guess. Look up a video for your specific snowblower model. Seeing someone else do it can clear up confusion fast.
When to Call a Professional
Most belt jobs are DIY-friendly. But sometimes, it’s smarter to get help. Know your limits.
If you see major damage beyond the belt, call a pro. A cracked pulley or a bent shaft needs special tools and skills to fix. Forcing it can make the problem worse.
If the belt keeps breaking soon after you replace it, there’s a deeper issue. Something is out of alignment or a bearing is seized. A mechanic can diagnose the root cause.
If you simply don’t feel comfortable, that’s okay. Paying for one professional repair is cheaper than buying multiple belts and possibly damaging the machine. Your safety is most important.
Look for a small engine repair shop in your area. They specialize in snowblowers and lawn mowers. They can often do the job quickly and may even offer a warranty on the work.
Remember, asking for help is not a failure. It’s a smart choice when the job is over your head. The goal is a working snowblower, no matter who fixes it.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know which belt is broken on my snowblower?
Start the engine and try to engage the auger. If the engine runs but the auger doesn’t spin, the auger drive belt is likely broken. If the engine runs and the auger spins but the machine won’t move forward, the wheel drive belt is probably the issue.
Can I use any belt that fits?
No, you should use the exact replacement part. Belts are designed for specific horsepower and torque. The wrong belt can slip, break quickly, or not provide enough grip to turn the heavy auger in wet snow.
How tight should the new belt be?
It should be snug with a little give. A good test is to press down on the belt midway between two pulleys. You should be able to deflect it about 1/2 inch with moderate finger pressure. If it doesn’t move, it’s too tight.
Do I need to remove the shear pins to change the belt?
Often, yes. Removing the shear pins allows the auger to spin freely, which makes it easier to route the new belt around the large auger pulley. Check your manual, as the process varies by model.
Why does my new belt squeal when I engage the auger?
Sque
