No, you should not store your snow blower with gas in it for the off-season. Leaving fuel in the tank can cause big problems for your engine and make starting it next winter a real headache.
This is a common question every spring. People want to know the right way to put their machine away. I get it, draining the gas seems like extra work.
But trust me, it’s work that saves you a lot of trouble later. I’ve learned this the hard way over many winters. A simple step now prevents a big repair bill later.
This guide will walk you through the why and the how. We’ll cover the safe way to store your snow blower so it’s ready to go when the first flakes fall.
Should I Store My Snow Blower With Gas In It? The Short Answer
The short answer is a clear no. You should not store your snow blower with gas in it for more than a month or two. This is the most important rule for winter equipment care.
Old gas breaks down and turns into a sticky mess. This gunk clogs the tiny passages inside your carburetor. A clogged carburetor means your engine won’t start or run right.
So when you ask, “should I store my snow blower with gas in it,” think about next winter. Do you want to fight with a stubborn machine in a blizzard? I know I don’t.
The best practice is to run the engine until the tank is empty. Or, you can use a fuel stabilizer if you must keep some gas in there. But emptying it is the safest bet.
This simple step protects your investment. It keeps your snow blower reliable for years to come. Skipping it is asking for trouble.
What Happens If You Leave Gas In Over Summer?
Leaving gas in your snow blower over the summer causes a chemical reaction. The fuel begins to oxidize and break down. This process starts in as little as 30 days.
The broken-down fuel leaves behind a thick, varnish-like residue. This residue is what gums up your fuel system. It coats the inside of the carburetor and fuel lines.
Ethanol-blended gas, which is common today, makes this problem worse. Ethanol attracts water from the air. This water can then separate inside your fuel tank.
Water in the tank leads to rust and corrosion. Rust flakes can then travel into the engine. This causes damage to internal parts.
Come next winter, you’ll turn the key or pull the cord. The engine might sputter but not start. Or it might start and then die right away. You’ll be left with a useless machine when you need it most.
According to the Consumer Reports guide on small engine care, stale fuel is a top cause of spring starting failures. It’s a totally avoidable problem.
The Right Way: Preparing for Long-Term Storage
So, if you should not store your snow blower with gas in it, what should you do? You need a proper storage routine. This takes about 30 minutes of your time.
First, run the engine to warm it up. This gets the oil moving and heats the exhaust system. A warm engine is easier to work on.
Next, turn off the fuel valve if your model has one. Let the engine run until it uses all the gas in the carburetor and fuel lines. It will sputter and stop on its own.
Once the engine is cool, you can safely drain any remaining gas from the tank. Use a siphon pump or a clean turkey baster. Put the old gas in an approved fuel container.
After the fuel is out, it’s a good time to change the engine oil. Old oil contains acids and contaminants from use. Fresh oil protects the engine while it sits.
Finally, disconnect the spark plug wire for safety. Give the whole machine a quick wipe down to remove dirt and moisture. Store it in a dry, covered place.
Following these steps gives you peace of mind. You’ll know your snow blower is protected. The American Society of Civil Engineers notes proper equipment storage extends its life and saves money.
Using a Fuel Stabilizer: The Alternative Method
Maybe you don’t want to drain the tank completely. There is another option. You can use a fuel stabilizer for storage.
A fuel stabilizer is a chemical you add to fresh gas. It slows down the oxidation process that makes gas go bad. Think of it as preservative for your fuel.
If you choose this route, you must add the stabilizer to *fresh* gas. Don’t try to stabilize gas that’s already been sitting for months. It won’t work well.
Fill your tank nearly full with fresh, high-octane gas. Then add the correct amount of stabilizer. Run the engine for 5-10 minutes to circulate the treated fuel through the entire system.
This method coats the inside of the carburetor with stabilized fuel. It helps prevent corrosion and varnish buildup during storage. Many people find it easier than draining.
However, it’s not a perfect solution. Stabilizers have a shelf life, usually about 12-24 months. And if you have old gas in there already, you’re just treating bad fuel.
For the absolute best protection, the answer to “should I store my snow blower with gas in it” is still no, even with stabilizer. But stabilizer is a good second choice.
Common Mistakes People Make
I see the same storage mistakes every year. People mean well, but they skip a key step. Let’s go over what not to do.
The biggest mistake is just parking it wet. They use the blower, then roll it into the garage with a full tank. They think, “I’ll deal with it later.” Later never comes.
Another error is using the wrong fuel. Regular 87-octane gas with 10% ethanol is hard on small engines. It breaks down faster and attracts more water.
Some people drain the tank but forget the carburetor bowl. Gas sits in the small bowl at the bottom of the carburetor. This little bit of fuel can still cause gumming.
Storing the machine outside under a tarp is another bad move. Moisture gets trapped and causes rust on the auger and chassis. Always store it in a dry shed or garage.
Finally, people forget about the battery on electric-start models. The battery should be disconnected and kept on a tender. A dead, sulfated battery is another spring surprise.
Avoiding these mistakes saves you time and frustration. It keeps your snow blower in fighting shape for the next storm.
Step-by-Step: Draining Your Snow Blower’s Fuel System
Let’s break down the fuel-draining process into simple steps. You’ll need a siphon, a fuel container, and maybe a wrench.
Step one: Work in a well-ventilated area away from sparks or flames. Gas fumes are flammable. Safety first.
Step two: Locate the fuel shut-off valve near the tank. Turn it to the “off” position. If there’s no valve, you’ll siphon from the tank opening.
Step three: Place your approved gas can on the ground below the tank. Use your siphon hose to transfer the gas from the tank to the can. Get as much out as you can.
Step four: Find the carburetor drain screw. It’s a small bolt on the bottom of the carburetor’s float bowl. Place a small cup under it and loosen the screw to drain any leftover fuel.
Step five: With the fuel system empty, start the engine. It might run for a few seconds on the fuel in the lines. Let it die completely. This ensures the lines are clear.
Step six: Tighten the drain screw back up. Dispose of the old gas properly at a recycling center. Don’t pour it on the ground or down a drain.
That’s it. Your fuel system is now prepped for storage. The engine will thank you next winter.
Why This Matters for Engine Health
You might wonder why a little old gas is such a big deal. It’s because small engines are simple but sensitive. They have tiny fuel jets and passages.
The carburetor’s job is to mix air and fuel in a perfect ratio. The fuel jets have holes smaller than a pinhead. Varnish from old gas plugs these holes easily.
A clogged jet means not enough fuel gets to the engine. The engine runs lean, which means too much air. A lean-running engine can overheat and cause serious damage.
Water in the fuel causes another issue called phase separation. The ethanol and water mix sink to the bottom of the tank. This watery mix gets sucked into the engine first.
Water doesn’t burn. So when it hits the cylinder, the engine misfires or stalls. It can also cause rust on cylinder walls and piston rings.
Protecting these internal parts is why you should not store your snow blower with gas in it. It’s cheaper than a $200 carburetor rebuild or a new engine. The Environmental Protection Agency also recommends proper fuel management to reduce emissions from small engines.
What About the Oil? Other Storage Tips
We talked a lot about gas, but oil matters too. Old engine oil gets contaminated with combustion byproducts. These can be acidic.
Changing the oil before storage removes these contaminants. It leaves fresh, clean oil coating the engine’s internal parts. This prevents corrosion during the off months.
Check your owner’s manual for the right oil type and amount. Usually, it’s a standard SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30. Use oil made for small engines if you can.
While you’re at it, check the auger and scraper bar. These are the parts that touch the ground. Look for worn paddles or a worn bar.
If the scraper bar is worn down, replace it now. You won’t want to do it in the cold next December. A sharp bar clears snow down to the pavement.
Lubricate all the moving points. This includes the auger shaft, the drive controls, and the chute pivot. A little grease keeps things moving freely.
Finally, make a note on your calendar for next fall. Remind yourself to check the machine before the first snow. A quick test start in November avoids last-minute panic.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I store my snow blower with gas in it if I use it monthly?
If you use the machine every month, you can keep gas in it. But you should still use a fuel stabilizer. Gas starts to degrade after 30 days, even with occasional use.
How long can gas sit in a snow blower before it goes bad?
Regular gasoline without stabilizer can start to degrade in 30-60 days. After 90 days, it’s often too stale to use reliably. Ethanol-blended fuel goes bad even faster.
Can I use old gas from my snow blower in my car?
I don’t recommend it. Your car’s fuel system is more complex and sensitive. It’s best to dispose of old small-engine gas properly at a recycling center.
Should I store my snow blower with gas in it over a mild winter?
The season doesn’t matter as much as the time. If the machine will sit unused for more than 60 days, the answer is no. Prepare it for storage regardless of the weather outside.
What’s the number one reason snow blowers won’t start?
Bad gas is the top culprit. A gummed-up carburetor from old fuel causes most starting problems
